Kermanshah has long been one of the important cities that connected the Iranian plateau to Mesopotamia. Along this ancient road, there were several structures and caravanserais for travelers to rest. The city itself was full of spectacular structures. The most famous of these structures was called “Tupkhaneh Bazaar.” The name of this market was chosen because the artillery regiment kept their military cannons in the caravanserai near the market.
Tupkhaneh market, like all other traditional markets of Iran, was considered as a reflection of the lifestyle of the city’ people and was a symbol of Kermanshah city. Therefore, this market, too, was of great importance and value for gaining knowledge of the society and behavior and activities of the city’s people. It was known as a place for trade of goods and cultural links. This link was vital also from another point of view. The market of Kermanshah was a meeting place of different cultures. The travelers who came to this city from Mesopotamia to buy or sell goods were both influenced by the culture of the city and left an impact on it.
History of Tupkhaneh Bazaar
Tupkhaneh Bazaar is located in the old and historical part of Kermanshah city. The market starts from the historical gate of Chaghasorukh and continues to another gate called Pol Seyed. It is also full of passages (lanes) such as the Alafkhaneh passages, gunsmithing, ironsmiths, coppersmiths, silversmiths, goldsmiths, cookie makers, bazarkhaneh; Hori Abad; Farashbashi, bankers, Chalhasan Khan market and several other lanes.
About 200 years ago, the eldest son of Fath Ali Shah Qajar, Muhammad Ali Mirza Dolatshah, was chosen to rule Kermanshah and the Iranian and Ottoman borders. He was a worthy and brave general and not only showed great courage in the wars between Iran and the Ottomans but also laid the foundation for the construction of many structures and buildings in the city of Kermanshah. But his life was short, and he died mysteriously on his return from the war between Iran and the Ottomans. The rulership of Kermanshah and the borders of this province were entrusted to his son, Imam Qoli Mirza Emad al-Doulah. He also made great efforts in the construction of structures and buildings. The market of Kermanshah was one of the structures that these two tried to restore and expand and made a lot of effort to make it prosperous.
First, Dowlatshah laid the foundations of the bazaar, and then Emad al-Dula completed it. Covering the market was one of the works of Imad Doulah. Therefore, the historical market of Kermanshah can be considered as the achievement of the Dowlatshahi family (Mohammed Ali Mirza Daulatshah and his children). But it is worth noting that the Zanganeh family were the founders of the passages (during the Zandieh period) from which Dolatshah and his children built a beautiful bazaar. Many other historical structures of Kermanshah city, such as Emadiyeh Palace, Emadaldoleh Palace, Masoudiyeh Palace, and Emad al-Doulah Mosque, are some of the structures that were built by the order and wish of the Dowlatshahi family.
Feature of Tupkhaneh bazaar
The roof of the market is one of its distinctive features. This roof has vents so that “tarikeh bazaar”, meaning dark bazaar (a name Khorramabad gave to this bazaar) are no darker. There are lots of shops on both sides of the passages and the “seras” and “timcheh” (clusters of shops) are located in the main passage of the market. This ancient texture is like all the historical markets of Iran. However, due to passage of time and street construction the main passage of the bazaar, which used to be in one piece, has been split into two parts. This work happened in the 1314 solar year with the construction of Sepah Street and led to the bifurcation of the market. This street is now known as one of the main streets of the city.
We mentioned the names of some of the passages earlier. But, here, we should add about the alafkhaneh passage; in March 2018 news spread about the indifference of the authorities and destruction of this passage (ISNA report). Alafkhane is located in Tupkhaneh Bazaar and Javanshir Street, also called the cloth sellers’ market. Because in the past, this part of the market was a place to sell barley, wheat, and legumes, so it was named Alafkhaneh. Unfortunately, this old market part is in ruins and has suffered much damage. However, there are 18 passages in the market, and also multiple clusters of shops (sera).
One of the most historical parts of this market is the passages that historians called the passage of the Tupkhaneh bazaar and the door to the animals barn.” The exact phrase was written in a beautiful script on a tile, and it is visible on the door of one of the market gates. This section was a place for shoaling the animals brought to the market with the caravans. The soldiers’ horses were also shoaled in this part of the market. Now, this part of the market is a place to sell fruits and vegetables.
All kinds of good are bought and sold in Kermanshah’s Tupkhaneh market the most important of these items are Kermanshah oil, traditional spices, and local yogurt and cheese offered in clay dishes. Kak (a kind of local Kermanshah sweets) and rice bread are among the other foods that are the most delicious provided by the vendors of Tupkhaneh market to their customers.
Historical Tupkhaneh Market has a history of more than two centuries. In that period, it has sometimes lost its prosperity, and occasionally, it has revived with renovations. This bazaar has now established its place in the city’s economy and is the leading trade center.
