Naraq, a city that is said to be the second historical city of Iran after Yazd, is located in the central province between the cities of Qom, Kashan, Delijan, and Isfahan, with a cold and mountainous climate. Mountain ranges surround it from 3 sides. In the northern corner of the city, the tall and high mountain “Ol,” a little beyond the seasonal Naraq River, stands out and on the south of this mountain Delijan plain spreads. It is said that since this city is located in the highest area of the ancient land of Pahleh, which became known as Iraq Ajam after Islam, it was called “Naraq” or “Nar Araq (Iraq).”
This city is divided into three sections (or neighborhoods); upper, middle and lower Naraq, and surrounded by almond and apricot orchards, which git into full bloom during Nowrooz. This gives a beautiful and pleasant view to the winding orchards alleys, with their straw-and-clay walls. Among other natural attractions of this small town are the Gisou waterfall, Chal Nakhjir cave, and ahaki cave.
In the past, Naraq was located on one of the side roads of the Silk Road. For this reason, in the southern corner of the city market, which is called Shams-ul-Sultaneh, there is a magnificent caravanserai with rooms built for caravans to rest on the market’s upper floor. The importance of Naraq as one of the commercial centers of that time can be understood from the existence of Naraq “meel” (tower), located 7 kilometers east of this city in a pass on the slopes of the Vilijia Mountain that goes towards Mashhad Ardehal. In the past, the towers were built as guides for the caravans, on which a fire was lit at night so travelers could distinguish the roads from byways.
Each of the three divisions of the city has a separate bath, mosque and water reservoir. The two buildings, namely, Imam Hassan Mosque and tomb of Imam Yahya belong to the Seljuk period. Other historical monuments such as Naraq Jame Mosque, Hosseiniyeh, reservoirs, bazaars, caravanserais, and magnificent noble mansions belong to the Qajar period, and some of them belong to the Safavid period. Naraq Jame Mosque is very similar to Agha Bozorg Mosque in Kashan and was built during the reign of Fath Ali Shah Qajar; in addition to the mentioned historical monuments, another building known as Imamzadeh Suleiman dates back to the Safavid period. There are three-hundred-year-old tombstones in it. One of the residents of Naraq believes this tomb belongs to Shah Suleiman Safavi.
In some of the old houses, the water of Haj Allaf Dad’s aqueduct cools the air in the cellars and underground resting areas dating back to more than 300 years. After traveling under the city’s surface, it flows towards the orchards and water mills. Many waters and windmills caused Naraq to be called the city of mills in the old days. Despite the relatively cool mountain weather, the wind breaks stand out beautifully in every corner of the city.
Another tourist attraction in Naraq is the Meteorite Museum. This museum was built in the place where a metorite weighting 3 kg hit the roof of Masoumi high school. It offered pieces of meteorites, fossils, natural lanterns, and some precious stones, such as water reservoirs it attracted tourists from all over Iran and the world.
Naraq fortress is located on the slope of “Ol” mountain, which the city’s inhabitants believe to be the house of jinnis. In the book: “History of Qom in the 4th century”, this fortress is mentioned as one of the most important fortresses of Qom. “Ol” in the native language means eagle’s nest, and it is believed to be related to the word “Ola” (meaning eagle) in the Tati language. Raji language (or Rayeji) has been mentioned as the old language of the city people, but nowadays, only a few people are familiar with this language.
Unfortunately, there are few references to Naraq in historical books. Only in few books written in the 13th century of Hijri, some explanation, among which we can refer to two books called “Bostan al-Sayaha” written by Haj Zeynol Abedin Shirvani (1194-1253 AH) and “Marat al-Qasan” written by Abdol Rahim Kalantar Zarrabi (1243 – 1253 AH). Haj Siyah Mahalati, describes Naraq as the “little India of Iran”, and Hassan Azam Qodsi, the ruler of Natanz, also mentions Naraq being attacked by outlaws and the damages caused to the city, in his memoirs. During his trip to Delijan, Nasser-eddin Shah notes the splendor of Naraq orchards, seen from far.
Based on field research and referring to local narratives, it is believed that this city was formed from the confluence of seven farms named: Gernian, Upper Bidshak, Lower Bidshak, Dar Chale Sorkh, Kandougah, Manzariyeh, and Shams Abad. Historical works such as glazed pottery and broken bricks indicate civil and social activities around Imam Hassan Mosque in the 6th to 9th centuries.
The seasonal Naraq River passes through the city’s northern outskirts and in front of “Ol” mountain, and a little beyond, there is “Jasb” wildlife sanctuary. This place is home to various species of native animals, such as rams, hedgehogs, porcupines, wild boars, see-see partridges, laughing doves, rabbits, foxes, etc. Jaseb’s vegetation consists of Boneh (wild pistachio), mountain almond, hawthorn, wild fig, barberry, Milkvetch, Acanthophyllum, Verbascum, Ephedra, desert lily, Bromus, and Taraxacum.
Planting palm trees is one of the ancient traditions of Naraq. The old palm tree of the city is located in a place attached to the Hosseinieh of the town and above the Haj Abdol Baqi reservoir. The old bathhouse in the lower neighborhood has been turned into an anthropological museum with the efforts of the people.
Among the noble and famous mansions of the city, we can mention the Fazelis house, the Foroughi house, the Raoufi house, the Yousefi house, the Safaei house, the Nakhjir house, etc.
Haj Mullah Mohammad Mahdi Naraqi, a jurist, philosopher, and mathematician known as Naraqian researcher, and his son Haj Mullah Ahmad Naraqi were famous scholars of the Qajar period, whose house is known today as the house of the nobles. Also, Mullah Ali Foroughi, the great grandfather of Fereydoon Foroughi, a contemporary singer and composer, was another famous person of that time. By walking in the city’s narrow alleys and historical mosques, you can understand the theme of some of Fereydoun Foroughi’s songs. Other re-known names from Naraq are Mohtasham Naraqi, Dr. Hedayatollah Nirsina, and Dr. Fataneh Naraqi.
The most expensive sweet in Iran belongs to Naraq. A rare local fruit called alag is coated with jowzghandi, a mixture of almond, sugar, cardamom, apricot kernels, and sugar dust, added to a rare local fruit called “Alag.” This fruit, which has a sweet and sour taste, is a type of peach found in abundance in the surrounding gardens. Nutmeg has a lot of calories and nutritional value so it can be kept in the open air for a long time and consumed as a meal under challenging conditions such as war or mountaineering.
Photos by Pouria Khalili
