Near Imamzadeh Ghasem in Shemiran city and one of the neighborhoods of Tajrish, there is an old shrine that houses the graves of a group of famous Iranian art, literature, and politics.
Ali Khan Qajar Davalo or Ali Khan Zahir-od-dowleh, known as “Safaali,” son-in-law and minister of protocol at the court of Nasser-eddin Shah, a follower of the monastery of Nematullah Safi Ali Shah and founder of the brotherhood society dedicated it to the Dervish group, after his death, for their ceremonies.
Zahir-do-dowleh’s reverence and respect among the different classes of society were the reason that many Sufis of higher rank, state and military officials, scientists and artists mention Zahir-od-dowleh shrine as their burial site, or at the request of their families to be buried in this garden.
The Davalos, along with the Qavanlu, were one of the two powerful Qajar tribes, which headed the Yukhari Bash branch. Those who played an essential role in the history of Iran from the Safavid period to the Pahlavi period always competed for power with the Ashaqabash branch, belonging to the generation of Qajar kings. The mother of Abbas Mirza and Mohammad Shah Qajar was from the Davalo clan and was married to Fath Ali Shah Qajar to resolve problems.
Among the famed characters buried in this shrine, are Ruhollah Khaleghi, Mohammad Taghi Bahar, Iraj Mirza, Rashid Yasemi, Rahi Moayeri, Dr. Mohammad Hossein Loghman Adham, Mohammad Massoud, Abolhassan Saba, Forough Farokhzad, Qamar-ol-Moluk Vazir, Hossein Tehrani, Mahjoubi brothers, Dariush Rafiei, Habibollah Samaei, Hassan Taghizadeh, Darvish Khan and Sobhi Mohtada mentioned.
In 1977, the last person buried in this shrine was Forough Khajehnouri, famous as Homayounfar (babysitter of Ashraf Pahlavi). Although Zahir-od-dowleh monastery has an excellent ability to attract tourists, unfortunately, due to unclear management and lack of a strong legal guardian has found a chaotic situation as some of the tombstones are disappearing. Although the cultural heritage organization has registered the cemetery, it does not provide any supervision for its preservation.
However, the green space and poetic environment have turned Zahir-od-dowleh monastery into a meeting place for lovers of Iranian culture, art, and history on Thursdays. As can sometimes be seen, several visitors gather at a large tomb and whisper his works or stand silent while playing music or reciting poems.
Photos by Pouria Khalili
